Big Bend is too big to see in a day, or even in a weekend. The park is so large and varied that by the time you finish seeing the whole thing you would have to start all over again at the beginning to remember. That said, even a few days of birding there are well worth it, regardless of whether or not you decide to go to the Chisos Mountains or stay close to the Rio Grande. I’ve traveled a lot around the western U.S., and Big Bend National Park is one of my favorite places I’ve been. It’s stayed with me in a way that I didn’t expect but that I am extremely grateful for.
Colima Warbler
Let’s cut to the chase. Most birders who are planning a trip to Big Bend National Park are going there to see the Colima warbler. The only place to see them outside of the pine-oak woodlands of northern Mexico is in the Chisos Mountains of Big Bend National Park. Even there, seeing them requires a steep and rocky hike to get up to the higher elevations where they spend their time. It’s something of a rite of passage for birders.
A lot of people say the song is distinctive and sounds like an orange-crowned warbler with an emphatic end note. These people are wrong. It may sound like that in recordings, but in the field the last note sometimes gets muffled by vegetation and can’t be heard. It sounds more like the trill of a dark-eyed junco*.
The most reliable place to see them is along the Pinnacles trail that leaves the Chisos Lodge area. Start early, wear long sleeves and a hat, and pack plenty of snacks and sunscreen. Bring more water than you think you’ll need—Boot Springs is not reliable enough to refill your water, and while the climb will be in the shade, the descent is in the full sun at the end of the day. The general store at the Chisos Lodge sells popsicles, but they are still a long hike away.
The first place to check for Colima warblers is about 2 miles up the trail, at a scree slope on the right side. There is a stand of maples and oaks that the Colimas like. Take a break, drink some water, and listen for their song. Then, hike up and over the pass to Boot Springs. Colimas like deciduous trees in wet canyon bottoms. Take a break near stream crossings and check out any gleaning birds. Apart from the Colimas, these are also great places to look for painted redstarts.
Painted redstarts have a 2-parted song, a weeta weeta weeta wee. It’s much kinder on the ears than the song of an American redstart, which is so high pitched that older birders have a hard time hearing it. Being reminded of the merciless passage of time on the mortal form tends to put a bit of a damper on a birding outing. Luckily, painted redstarts sing in a much nicer register. Let’s keep it light here.
Boot Springs
The Pinnacles trail will take you up to Boot Springs, a vital water source for migrating birds and other wildlife. The springs are a reliable place for blue-throated mountain gems, Townsend’s warblers, and Hutton’s vireos. You can expect to see white-throated swifts and acorn woodpeckers during the hike to get there. The hike is about 9 miles round trip.
A detour to tag Emory Peak is well worth the extra vert and 2.8 miles of additional hiking. There won’t be any species that you can’t see on the hike to boot springs, but the views from the top are unbeatable. From the highest point in the park, you can see down to the desert floor and across to the sky islands on the other side of the border. Be aware that the last 25 feet to the summit itself require a class-3 scramble.
There are several composting toilets along the Chisos Basin trail system, eliminating the need to try and dig a hole and squat over it like a stray cat or carry a full WAG bag. These are at the junction of the Emory Peak Trail and the Pinnacles Trail, at Boot Canyon, and by the Laguna Meadows backcountry campsites.
Chisos Campground
Even if you’re not camping there, the campground is a great place to see Scott’s orioles, verdin, and cactus wrens. At night, listen for elf owls and Mexican poorwills. Greater road runners like to scurry around the campground and look for lizards, sparrows, and other little treats.
Water Treatment Plant
The park is in a desert. While most of the flora and fauna is adapted to the low-water lifestyle (a certain Dutch pediatrician is probably fuming right now) they still need to drink. Wildlife congregates around the few water sources in the park. In low water times, one of the few reliable places to find water is the outflow of the water treatment plant in the Chisos Campground. A small marsh has formed around the outflow and provides excellent habitat for migratory birds on their way north in the spring.
Follow the road past the gate on foot and down into the valley. Keep an eye out for sow bears with cubs in the spring. Find the single-track trail to the left of the water treatment plant and follow it around to a small wetland at the back. I was treated to a varied bunting, lucifer hummingbirds, black-chinned hummingbirds, pyrrhuloxia, and a black-throated sparrow.
Rio Grande Village
The Rio Grande Campground closes in April, but it’s still a great place to go birding. Probably even better, since there are no people (although I did cross fresh mountain lion tracks on the way to the river.) The trees on the campground are a reliable spot for vermillion flycatchers and great horned owls, and you might be rewarded with a green kingfisher if you meander down to the river.
For burro fans, the drive to Rio Grande Village gives you a good chance of seeing wild burros
Check out the trees along Daniel Ranch Road for a peek at the common black hawk nest and the gray hawk nest.
Getting there and staying there
Reaching Big Bend NP is an adventure in and of itself. The nearest town with motels, gas stations, and a grocery store is Marathon, 80 miles north of the park. Make sure to fill your gas tank in Marathon. There is a gas station in the park, but it is expensive and they can run out on busy days. The nearest H-E-B (the Texas grocery store, with free samples on Sundays), is 186 miles away in Odessa. When I went in May 2024, there was a massive thunderstorm hanging between the park and I and I watched the weather radar like a hawk until there was a gap when I could dash south, dodging lightning bolts and hailstones the size of golfballs.
Spring is the best time to go. The desert is in bloom, the temperatures aren’t as hot, and the migratory birds are passing through. Drive slowly. I know you’re excited about what will be an excellent day of birding. Every year, however, bear cubs are hit and killed by cars at the pass going into Chisos Basin. Follow the speed limit—it’s there for a reason. That said, in winter the clouds come in and dance among the peaks, and the heat lifts enough to explore parts of the park that are too hot to see otherwise.
If everything is too hot, the visitor center has air conditioning. There is a theater where they play a 20-minute documentary about the park. Between the cushioned seats, the quiet, and the darkness, it’s a great place for delicate people like myself to hide out from the heat of the day. Another option is to go to the Chisos Lodge, which has cooler temperatures and a breeze thanks to the higher elevation. The porch has shaded seating with power outlets if you need to recharge your camera batteries or phone, and the restaurant has food and ice-cold drinks.
If possible, stay in the Chisos Campground. It’s cooler than the rest of the park, the views are amazing, and there is easy access to birding trails in the morning. There are no walk-in sites and reservations are open 14 days before the date. They usually run out very quickly, but sometimes you can get lucky and find a cancellation. Most, but not all, of the campsites have a shade structure. Be prepared to bring your own shade just in case yours doesn’t. Of course, the more comfortable (albeit more expensive) option is to stay in the Chisos Lodge.
The backcountry campsites make for an unforgettable experience if you have the time and fitness. One enormous caveat: there is no reliable water, so you would have to carry in enough water for your hike in, the overnight, and the hike out. Plan for at least a gallon per person per day.
If everything is booked, check out Hipcamp for camping options in Terlingua and Marathon. Be prepared to bring your own water and shade. Terlingua also has dining options, like Milagro’s Tacos. While not quite as good as Ferny’s Tacos in Silt, Colorado, they still serve objectively delicious food.
I am sure that a certain Dutch Pediatrician would be very proud of you!